WRC 10 continues to improve on the WRC series. Anyone coming from the earlier titles will feel very comfortable with the driving in this game. The rally stages are probably the best I've seen in a game and are incredibly fun to drive. It's a game ideally played with a wheel, but for the Logitech G29 and G920, the default force feedback settings don't give the best first impression.
The steering angle isn't quite right and the force feedback is much too strong, completely maxing out the power of the wheel on nearly every corner. This makes the wheel feel heavy, hard to turn and disconnected from the road. There is so much detail in the physics that gets lost with the default settings.
Thankfully, the game provides a great deal of customization when it comes to the force feedback settings. I tested every setting until I got the wheel light enough to handle the frequent hairpin corners, yet still have strong enough force feedback to provide plenty of information about the car and road surface.
In this guide, we will first look at the settings you need to set in G HUB, if playing on a PC. Then we will look at the in-game settings to improve the force feedback.
G HUB Settings
Create a new profile for WRC 10 with the following settings:
WRC 10 Settings
In Options > Controls > Key Bindings:
|Steer Left Sensitivity||0|
|Steer Left Deadzone||0|
|Steer Left Saturation||100|
|Steer Left Rescale||Off|
|Steer Left Invert||On|
|Steer Right Sensitivity||0|
|Steer Right Deadzone||0|
|Steer Right Saturation||100|
|Steer Right Rescale||Off|
|Steer Right Invert||Off|
These are just the default values. No changes were necessary. You could raise the sensitivity a little bit if you would like the car to turn a little faster when the wheel is centered.
In Options > Controls > Settings:
It's important to make sure the Max Wheel Angle is set to 540, matching what is set in G HUB.
|Max wheel angle||540|
|Self aligning torque||90|
I like how the WRC series games separate the force feedback from vibrations and has separate overall levels for each type. It makes it easy to keep the same proportions of forces, while raising or lowering the overall strength of each type.
Self Aligning Torque is the main force that tells you what the car is doing. You can turn everything else off and have a very good experience from this force alone.
Tyre Load is a damper effect based on the load on the tires. Setting this too high will make the wheel unnecessarily heavy.
Self Centre is the spring force, which artificially pulls the wheel back to the center. If you use this at all, keep it very low. If you turn this up too high, it will make the wheel feel very heavy, constantly resisting any turn you put in the wheel.
Recentre Force is only used when you reset the car after going off the track. It just puts the wheel back to the center. It has no impact while you are driving.
The vibration forces tell more about the surface of the track, though they are largely canned effects.
Tyre Slip vibrates the wheel whenever the car loses traction. If this is too high, it can be very jarring every time you slide the car around a corner. I don't care for this, so I turn it off.
Engine vibrates the wheel whenever the engine hits the red line. I don't particularly like this, so I have turned it down to the point where you practically can't feel it at all. You could turn this higher if you like the effect.
Suspension, Ground Surface and Collision all work together to give the rumble effects as you drive over bumps, go off the track or hit things on the side of the road.
WRC 10 is an incremental upgrade over WRC 9. It still has the best stage design, even if it still lacks in the graphics and sound department. Having played the previous entries in the series, I found it easy to jump right into this one without issue. Rally is probably my favorite racing discipline to play and WRC 10 is looking like another great title.
Let me know if you have any comments or questions.