Best WRC 9 Settings for Logitech G29 / G920
WRC 9 continues to improve the series over the already excellent WRC 8. It has some of the best courses available in a rally game and it feels very nice to drive, once you get used to the physics. It's a game ideally played with a wheel, but for the Logitech G29 and G920, the default force feedback settings don't give the best first impression.
The steering angle isn't quite right and the force feedback is much too strong, completely maxing out the power of the wheel on nearly every corner. This makes the wheel feel heavy, hard to turn and disconnected from the road. There is so much detail in the physics that gets lost with the default settings.
Thankfully, the game provides a great deal of customization when it comes to the force feedback settings. I tested every setting until I got the wheel light enough to handle the frequent hairpin corners, yet still have strong enough force feedback to provide plenty of information about the car and road surface.
G HUB Settings
Create a new profile for WRC 9 with the following settings:
WRC 9 Settings
In Options > Controls > Key Bindings:
|Steer Left Sensitivity||0|
|Steer Left Deadzone||0|
|Steer Left Saturation||100|
|Steer Left Rescale||Off|
|Steer Left Invert||On|
|Steer Right Sensitivity||0|
|Steer Right Deadzone||0|
|Steer Right Saturation||100|
|Steer Right Rescale||Off|
|Steer Right Invert||Off|
These are just the default values. No changes were necessary. You could raise the sensitivity a little bit if you would like the car to turn a little faster when the wheel is centered.
In Options > Controls > Settings:
It's important to set the Max Wheel Angle to 540, matching what is set in G HUB. For some reason, it defaults to 380, deviating from every other rally game I've played.
|Max wheel angle||540|
|Self aligning torque||100|
I like how the WRC series games separate the force feedback from vibrations and has separate overall levels for each type. It makes it easy to keep the same proportions of forces, while raising or lowering the overall strength of each type.
Self Aligning Torque is the main force that tells you what the car is doing. You can turn everything else off and have a very good experience from this force alone.
Tyre Load is a damper effect based on the load on the tires. Setting this too high will make the wheel unnecessarily heavy.
Self Centre is the spring force, which artificially pulls the wheel back to the center. If you use this at all, keep it very low. If you turn this up too high, it will make the wheel feel very heavy, constantly resisting any turn you put in the wheel.
Recentre Force is only used when you reset the car after going off the track. It just puts the wheel back to the center. It has no impact while you are driving.
The vibration forces tell more about the surface of the track, though they are largely canned effects.
Tyre Slip vibrates the wheel whenever the car loses traction. If this is too high, it can be very jarring every time you slide the car around a corner. I don't care for this, so I turn it off.
Engine vibrates the wheel whenever the engine hits the red line. I don't particularly like this, so I have turned it down to the point where you practically can't feel it at all. You could turn this higher if you like the effect.
Suspension, Ground Surface and Collision all work together to give the rumble effects as you drive over bumps, go off the track or hit things on the side of the road.
I had a hard time controlling the car when I first started playing this game. The physics are just different enough from other games to require some time to get used to them. Part of that learning curve was dialing in the right FFB settings so I could properly feel what the car was doing. Once you get these settings applied and have some time to get used to the physics, you can have a great time with this game.
Let me know if you have any comments or questions.